It’s always a bitter, bitter pill, the broad assessment of entire vintages via empty point value. Of course there are years with terrible conditions, less than favourable instances and merciless acts of nature. But not a single region the world over can, or should, be so conveniently rammed into such pigeonholes of homogeny. And no two winemakers have the same philosophy, leading them to make the same decisions. In Montalcino 2005 was slammed by many critics almost across the board. But we as sommeliers, collectors, and consumers have an obligation to look a little closer. At what it is we not only expect, but what we need. Should every vintage offer up nothing but bombs? So chalk-full of face-ripping tannins, alcohol and acid that after ten years of collecting you still don’t have a single drinkable wine in your cellar? Sounds neither appealing nor natural to me. And Nature is indeed never coincidental, and neither is this wine. Now I’m certainly not going to pull a “Bordeaux move” here and pontificate about the 2005 Salicutti vintage; that it’s the greatest single achievement of man kind since fire. It’s not possessing the ageing potential of the 2011s, the depth and development of the 2004s, nor the sheer deliciousness of the 2007s. However it is a great example of Brunello at its most elegant. And more importantly, provides its loyal fans with something absolutely drinkable between two otherwise long-haul vintages. Especially for restaurants in need of vintages depth for prestige yet can’t sit on every bottle for the next 10 years without a little inventory movement. This wine is clearly en route to reaching its apex, no longer hiding its wonderful earthiness behind an otherwise Baroque structure. The tannins are still a tad edgy though and the fruit a touch leaner, but at a mere 13.5% it’s an eminently drinkable Brunello which I personally enjoy at cellar temp. This keeps the fruit properly crisp, boasts the juiciness within and integrates the acidity flawlessly.

This is without question a very gastro-oriented wine. Perfectly at home at the table, more so than outside on the terrace. Accessible and open, but should hit its third and most wonderful stage of development within the next five years. Drink this one while waiting for the more reticent 2006s.

Autor: Justin Leone