A pile of dried autumn leaves next to a warm brick oven where a freshly baked sour cherry tart has been set out to cool. No question about the 15% alcohol here; powerful vintages produce powerful wines which of course demand patience and of course an adequate cellar. But this wine bears the burden with absolute grace and dignity. There is nary a single hint of the overripe to be found; the structure firm and precise, the tannins gripping yet sensually velvety. The alcohol is more warming than obvious, providing the backbone for what will be a long and fruitful development in the bottle. Astoundingly reserved for its near 12 year internment, its best days still long ahead. We likely won’t see them before 2025. Only the lightly brick-hued rim belies its age as of yet, the fruit somewhat lean and the palate far from expressive. An impressively compact package, full of spit and vinegar and not the least of which is sheer potential. The fruit character is still rather young and remarkably savoury, coupled with the spicy florals almost reminiscent of pink peppercorn and the roses, tar, mace, cedar and darjeeling tea notes. The hint of deep, dark cherry liqueur which peeks out on the finish does hint toward a beautifully round, rich development in its next phase however. Generally speaking, a wine of great purity, poise, and structure. Not one for the beginners, but definitely one for the patient connoisseur.

Autor: Justin Leone