As would be expected, the Riserva is simply everything the Piaggione is but cranked to Eleven. If the Piaggione is a Welter Weight, call this one a Meddle Heavy. More punch in every bandwidth; higher highs, deeper bass, and a live-wire midrange which really cranks out one hell of a nose. This “boost” of course also holds true for the alcohol, which in this wine’s infancy does tend to shine through (at 15%) however will prove itself later as merely gas in the tank for the undoubtedly long-haul ahead. I mean this puppy is going to take patience. Though slightly discombobulated at the moment, it unquestionably boasts the stuffing of a champion. Like a young Babe Ruth, this one swings for the fences. Remarkable power and depth despite its precise frame with an uncanny persistence on the palate to boot. In stark contrast to the 2012, its fruit is almost black, it’s so dark, coupled by a bitterness of pure fruit concentration which borders on the Amaro-esque.

The oak does make its presence felt for the first time in the lineup but never fear, it is quite judicious and handled expertly - something you don’t necessarily notice straight away yet something you would miss were it to be left out. Like the triangle or wood block in a rock tune. It will also be needed for the journey to 25+ years which I would expect this wine to not only last, but truly hit its stride. And despite the presence of oak and general broad-shouldered character, the tannins are so beautifully round, ripe and supple, that should you give in to temptation by pulling a cork or two, you certainly won’t feel punished for your indiscretion.

This is a rare Brunello indeed, in both breed and class. A delicate bio-dynamic/ near natural touch which has tamed the otherwise primal beast within. Buy now, and plenty; then trust me, your Children will be thankful.

Autor: Justin Leone