This nose is precisely the reason why Montalcino has emerged over the last years as such a preeminent force commanding a legion of loyal devotees. The structure hedges on Bordeaux; a powerfully elegant Pessac, to be exact, and of Grand Cru pedigree. However the brisk acidity takes one quickly away from such inclinations. This mingling of rose garden with asphalt, black cherries, Earl Grey tea, forest floor in October, black truffle and seductively spicy Cassia scream of Bourgeoise Barolo breed, however Burgundian the wine’s refinement may be. At the end of the day such comparisons are just silly because the 2004 is quintessentially Salicutti at its apogee. One whiff has you atop a champion steed at full gallop; the hounds howling after fleet foxes while bounding over shrub and hedge. The damp earth kicks up against the leather saddle, the lead firm in one and and the well-oiled chestnut rifle stock in the other. The horse snorts against the forest’s distinctive musk in the cool morning air as it fills your lungs.

The garnet hue in glass quickly fades to a rust-orange rim however this wine has far from heard the proverbial fat lady sing. In fact she hasn’t even warmed up yet. Thankfully we’ve still got about 3-5 years yet before this one shows the royal flush it’s about to complete at the river. A truly glorious, complex, deep, multi-faceted effort. Rich in supple tannins, invigorating acidity, a lovely and still promising bitterness at the end of the finish which will surely melt away to chocolate cordial-cherry with more years to come. If I were to ever make a case for the superiority of this house and its unwaveringly regal, elegant and intellectual style, the 2004 would indeed be called to the stand as a key witness. A true joy, adventure, and honestly an honour, to drink. Autor: Justin Leone