Brunello
di Montalcino
Tasting Notice
First, a brief word to the wise: Brace yourself for impact before dipping your nose in this one!
The first whiff is like duck-diving a 15-meter wave of Tuscan sun; the ready to burst fruit washing over the palate only to tumble the tastebuds in an undercurrent of power and concentration. This ain’t no sundry drive, folks.
07 was for many an ideal vintage; a near-perfect growing season yielded plentiful amounts of potently aromatic, lively acidic, and powerfully alcoholic wines of broader dimension yet somehow still wonderfully balanced. This can certainly be said as well for Salicutti. With a velvety, dense, almost sappy concentration despite which, maintaining a healthy distance form anything remotely marmalade-like. The sharp edges and brilliant delineation make this a rather buxom yet thoughtful bombshell. Possessing a sexiness which almost instills panic; a pang of guilty pleasure which literally wafts from the glass, its curves are simply nothing short of erotic. Supple, fleshy, almost liqueured cherry fruit counter the savoury beef bouillon meatiness. Christmas holly and cinnamon stick add a hint of emotional nostalgia; a wintery charm leaving one yearning for the bearskin rug and roaring fireplace to complete the picture.
And like massive old architecture, this one is built to last. Give it another easy 10 years to switch off the afterburners and reach full cruising altitude, but it is pure joy to consume now as well. Not needing of much decanting currently, either. I would simply pour straight from the bottle into generously large glasses, I like the Riedel Brunello or Sommelier Bordeaux myself. Trust me, this beast needs the room to roam. A full-throttle effort by Francesco & Co. which doesn’t waver from the house M.O. for one second: Balance, refinement, and unabashed authenticity. Simply brilliant.
Autor: Justin Leone