Unbelievably supple yet bright cherry fruit envelops the nose straight away, wrapped snugly in a silky robe of subtle oak, merely a whisper beneath the bundle of fresh sage, a hint of rose hip and candied lavender. This is a Brunello of pure poise rather than power. The balance is remarkable, if not at all “loud.” Astutely articulate on the palate, high-toned and punchy. Loads of mid-range clarity rather than gobs of fuzzy, thumping bass. The finish is persistent with a laser beam focus and intensity through to the end, which at the moment leaves a pleasant tug of bitterness behind. This to me is the tell-tale precursor to what should develop into a luscious velour-like texture saturated in luscious brandied cherries. This will undoubtedly be the reward for another 8-10 years of waiting, as difficult as it will be considering how delicious this Brunello is now. However something sublime is imminent, a juggernaut it shall never be. Nor should it, as true to the Salicutti form, this is a Brunello geared toward the Volnay lover, not the Amarone fan. Also important to note that for such a relatively hot vintage, this is an astoundingly lean and focused effort. Truly a beauty amongst far too many beasts.

Autor: Justin Leone